A large part of the route from Puerto Natales to Puerto Montt, passes between the spectacular fjords that form the west coast of the lower third of Chile. One stretch of about 14 hours is spent outside the fjords in the open ocean. This is the section after the San Pedro lighthouse, after which the route passes through the Golf de Penas and around Faro Rapper, before reentering the fjords between Isla Inchemo and Bahia Anna Pink. This is also the section, dependant on the weather, the swell and waves, where one feels the movement of the ship. Fortunately the weather was quite mild and the ship rolled gently.
Three main sectors of the route.
Dusk in Puerto Natales on 2nd January, view from the Esperanza.
Images en route
Visit to the Command Bridge
Anyone interested was taken to visit the bridge one afternoon and the captain showed every one around and explained aspects of navigation and instrumentation. He has been sailing for over 45 years. He has been doing this route for over 25 years and knows every spot, intimately like the back of his hand and the tides and timings. He sails up and down for two months at a time and has a month off.
Spending time on board…Scrabble, Reading, Meals, Jigsaw puzzles and sleep!!
The Engine Room of the Esperanza.
On the 6th of January there was a conducted visit to the engine room of the Esperanza. It was specially designed and built in China at the Wartsila Qiyao Diesel Company in Shanghai specifically for this route in the Chilean fjords. It powered by two Wartsila W9L20 main engines with 1800 KW per engine, and two controlled pitch propellers with a cruising speed of 13 knots or 24km/hr.
The two loading decks of the Ferry, has a combined vehicle length of 1800 metres.
The best times were during the night with the moon and early dawn under clear skies when the Esperanza appeared to silently glide on the tranquil water,
The Esperanza sailed into Puerto Montt harbour just after sunrise on the 7th of January and docked immediately as it was a clear calm morning.
Sheila’s take:
We were now on the last phase of our journey – the ferry trip from Puerto Natales to Puerto Montt.
I curled up in the bunk bed in the cabin and surrendered to the bliss of reading a book.
Every journey starts with an idea that needs to go through a process of incubation as it takes shape and gathers energy for the momentum of the germination phase. This period is called the ‘Period of stasis.’ This period is followed by the ‘Stage of Expansion’ when the idea becomes a reality as it did for us with the road trip. The expansion when complete goes into the ‘Stage of Contraction’. This is the time we usually feel depleted and a little down, as the journey is reaching the end and the adrenaline that kept you going has drained away. Finally slipping back into the ‘Stage of Stasis’ this is time to reflect and absorb everything and thus completing the cycle.
For me the ‘Stage of Expansion was reaching the end and the period of contraction was beginning. I had come prepared for this stage and in the confines of the cabin, I started reading’Mother Mary comes to me’ by Arundhathi Roy. I thoroughly enjoyed the book, and it kept me occupied for a the next couple of days.
We also played scrabble and watched the tide and the waves lapping against the rocky islands as the ship passed by.
On the last day a little burst of energy allowed us to engage with some fellow passengers and listen to their stories.
Finally it was time to leave the ship, and drive to the airport where we deposited the rental car to catch the flight back home.
Looking back on our trip what did I learn?
- Prayers are powerful and helped us on our trip.
- ‘Facing the fear and doing it anyway’ something I have read about in so many books, took on a real meaning for me and we felt a certain sense of achievement and so much joy doing the trip.
- We were initially quite reserved, but as we decided to engage with fellow travellers, the journey became more interesting with so many shared stories. We learned about connections to earth and all people.
- Finally we learned that next time we should travel lighter and maybe keep a space in the back seat for any hitch hikers, for that is an experience that we opted out of this time.
“Traveling – it leaves you speechless, then turns you into a storyteller.” – Ibn Battuta
We have told our story and it’s time to bid goodbye until next time!😊
The Ship
The sun shines through the window
The sea is made of silk.
Gentle rocking enfolds us
And time holds its breath,
The kaleidoscope of people we meet
The food we eat
The captain and crew
The water, the sky, the wind
We rest, we wait
The Land
And memories take root
Deep roots of Mother Nature
Of roads travelled,
Exquisite beyond words, beyond pictures
Connection, an indescribable bond
We return changed, Internally the atoms, molecules and cells rearranged
Externally one month older, two pound heavier!
The currency of time well spent!
Titus ( Suresh) and Sheila. 🐾🐾
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