There was a long queue for gasoline at the only gas station (YPF) in El Chalten just outside the town in the morning and we had to wait about 30 minutes. We realised that we should have filled up the day before in the evening when it was quiet.
The weather had changed by the time we filled gasoline and commenced our drive for the day, with storm clouds gathering. One of the things about Patagonian weather is that one can sometimes experience all four seasons in a day and have to be prepared.
We had to retrace our route along route 41 along Lago Viedma and join Ruta 40 at El Peltz Metallico, and then take Ruta 11 to El Calafate.
Route from El Chalten to Perito Moreno
Although storm clouds had gathered over El Chalten, back on Ruta 40, it was different, with white fluffy clouds in a sunny sky against a background of a jade Lago Viedma, and wild fields of Red Sorrel.
The road had tarmac almost all the way to El Calafate, and we made very good progress, (in spite of several stops for pictures) reaching around 3pm.
We had booked for a night at Posada Larsen at El Calafate. The Posada was conveniently located about a km from the centre, on a hill with a great view.
Milagros the receptionist, explained that the entrance to the Los Glacieres National Park shut at 6 pm and we would have to get there soon if we were to spend some time at the Glacier, which was a further 90 km away. We left soon after check in, through the town heading west along Ruta 11, which meandered along the southern coast of Lago Argentina which was an azure blue. After obtaining tickets we drove the final 20 km to the viewing walkways close to the glacier.
The Perito Moreno Glacier is an absolutely stunning and breathtaking spectacle of nature. It is the third largest glacier in Argentina and is about 30 km long and has a front of about 5km, is about 75 metres high and drains into Lago Argentina. It is named after the Argentine explorer and scientist Francisco Moreno, who had a deep knowledge of Patagonia and had a crucial role in defining Argentina’s southern borders.
While watching it, occasionally large chunks of ice would break off and collapse into the Lago with a clap of thunder and a large splash and swirls and turbulence. There are several walkways which allow visitors to walk right down to the waters edge and get close to the ice face for breath taking views. We spent about 90 minutes walking along awestruck at it’s sheer beauty and magnificence.
We were one of the last to leave Perito Moreno at about 7.15 pm and the road back was quiet with very little traffic, a serendipitous advantage for having gone late.
The Main Street of El Calafate Avenida del Liberator was bustling as we returned, and we stopped for dinner at Isabella’s a very large restaurant serving Argentinian stew, as recommended by the Italian couple at Santa Thelma. We were however not very impressed as we found the meat was tough and the stew very salty.
The saving grace was the live music and a couple gracefully dancing the Argentine Tango.
Views at night from Posada Larsen
Sheila’s take: I had a dream.
Suresh and I were on a boat and the boat was gently and smoothly sailing upstream. It was disorienting because the river flowing by the side was very very turbulent. We were however not a part of it.
Continuing with the story of our drive from El Chalten to El Calafate. Soon after we left town Suresh was yawning and tired and wanted me to drive. I took over a while later I asked him if he wanted to take over but he did not. I carried on. After a while I asked if he wanted me to stop and take over. After a silence he said if you wish, clearly not willing. At that point I got really angry and decided to drive and not stop even when he asked me to. He realised I was upset. We travelled in silence for a bit and then he took off his seatbelt and asked me to pull over and he took over the driving.
I got into the passenger seat feeling exhausted and upset. I looked out of the window and the stunning landscape no longer looked beautiful. I felt disconnected. I decided to meditate as this is what I do when I am feeling out of sorts. As I meditated I felt the heaviness in my heart like a sky of dark clouds and the tightness in my throat. I allowed space for this and started a dialogue with my body. Initially I felt nothing. I asked for help to understand what I was feeling. Then slowly it opened up. There was a sadness in me for us not being there for Siddharth’s birthday. It was a choice we had made but I could see the suppressed sadness that we both felt. I acknowledged it. A few tears rolled down my eyes. I accepted my feelings.
Having acknowledged this, I began to feel the clouds in my emotional landscape lifting and evaporating!
I was back in the present!
Looking back, I understood the meaning of my dream. Water represents emotions and we were rowing smoothly on land beside the turbulent emotions which I had separated myself from.
When we reached Perito Moreno after checking in we decided to go see the Perito Moreno Glacier. As we drove up the spiral path of the mountain clothed in trees of different sizes and shapes and flowers and shrubs blooming in every nook and cranny I felt my spirits lift.
When we reached the glacier it was spell binding and words and pictures fail to describe what you experience.
Again we were confronted by the indescribable awe inspiring beauty of Nature!
Quiz for Siddharth: Spot Pacha!
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