After scouting around and getting an idea of the town we dropped into the office of Nomade the tour agency, for details of the trip to the San Raphael Glacier the next day, scheduled for 6.50 am.
The next day, Valerie, our guide and the driver, took Ruta X 728 which branched off from Ruta 7 meandering along the southern border of Lago Tranquilo, and then to the Bahia Exploradores Pier. The route passed Monte San Velentin to the south. That whole region was previously an ice field , which had shrunk over the last couple of centuries. On reaching the Pier at Bahaia Exploradores, Valerie and the skipper prepared the boat, the Amakiak, 10m long with two 150HP Suzuki outboard motors and we set off on the 90 minute trip to the San Rafael Glacier.
Nearing the glacier, the boat had to navigate between increasingly larger pieces of icebergs which had calved off from the main glacier. The Amakiak, stopped for an hour, a couple of kilometres away from the glacier for an hour for all to marvel at it’s beauty and majesty.
The San Rafael Glacier, of the Northern Patagonian ice-field is the fastest melting glacier in the world and even as we were observing it a piece of it separated ( called calving) and fell into the water making a sound like a thunderclap. It is approximately 15km long with an icewall that can be unto 70m high and 2km wide where it meets the lagoon.
The ice field is like the palm of the hand and the glaciers are like the fingers. The Northern Patagonian Ice field has 30 or so glaciers and only San Rafael Glacier calves into the ocean.
The icebergs we saw were of different sizes and shapes. The very blue iceberg indicates dense and solid block of ice which is reflecting the colour blue whilst absorbing the other colours. The icebergs with air bubbles and pockets of gas within are more white.
Day 24/12/2025: Trip to the Marble Caves (Catedral de Marmol).
The Marble caves are naturally carved caves and islets on the beautiful turquoise General Carera lake near Puerto Tranquilo. The marble was formed by the limestone (calcium carbonate created from shells and marine organisms cemented together) subjected to intense pressure and heat underground million of years ago.
The marble and calcium carbonate was continuously eroded and reshaped over 6000 years forming unique shapes and tunnels and columns. The cathedral is a separate larger one of its unique shapes.
These stunning natural sculptures are accessed by boats or kayaks.
We were told to come to the office from where we started at 7.30 am and to be dressed warmly. So we were there looking most unwieldily with 3 layers of clothing over which they then made us wear a waterproof poncho and trousers and life jacket. We thought we would die of heatstroke. But when we got into the boat and started flying more than sailing we understood the need for all the layers. The sea tossed us around and played with us like a piece of twig. The seemingly tranquil Rio Tranquilo was anything but tranquil. Finally wet and cold we reached the marble caves and the beauty of it all blew our minds.
Sheila’s take: We were greeted as we reached Peurto Rio Tranquilo by a magnificent rainbow. On looking closer there was a second rainbow. For me this was a great omen for our stay in this place. The next day as we set off in the van on our glacier trip, we sighted our second rainbow and finally as we bid goodbye to Puerto Tranquilo on day 3 there was a third rainbow in the sky! Mother Nature was indeed showering us with blessings.
On the 24th after we had visited the marble caves, in the afternoon we decided to visit the only little chapel in this place. We were told that the chapel is always open from 11am to 6pm. So we walked to the chapel fairly confidant, that though we could not go for Christmas Mass we could at least say a prayer of thanks in the chapel. But when we reached there, the chapel was closed. We were just standing there a little disappointed wondering what to do when a man who looked Indian walked by. He stopped and looked at us and asked if we were Indian. We said yes and he said he was an Indian too. We were the only 3 Indians in this place and we had met. But more interesting was the conversation that followed. Perhaps the universe was showing us a different way to pray? Connecting with someone who was quite unique?
His name is Dr Raj Phanden and he is an Ayurvedic doctor. He has been cycling around the world for the last 10 years and has covered over a 100 countries. He believes in Vasudhaiva Kutumbakam (the world is one family). He does have an UTube channel and is called the ‘Cycle Baba’. You can check him out.
For Siddharth: As we got home to our Cabana on the last day, two little baby goats were busy chewing up the garden. We opened our door and went in and before we knew it we had two little inquisitive visitors in our front room running around!!
On Christmas Eve we walked around the corner to Casa Bruga, recommended by the Cabana for dinner along with Calafate Sours. We struck up conversation with an American couple from Philadelphia. He was a retired haematopathologist who had been to India several times for meetings at Vellore, Delhi and Mumbai and had a good friend living in Macclesfield south of Manchester.
Patrick from Montreal also joined the conversation. He was travelling solo, hiking and sight seeing and was off to Cerro Castillo the next day for a long hike.
Christmas Day we are back on the road, travelling to Chile Chico and crossing over to Argentina.
Saying goodbye to a beautiful place. As Cycle Baba said having been to a lot of places, he felt that PUERTO RIO TRANQUILO was one of the most peaceful places with a beautiful feel to it.
To be continued….
Adios for now!!
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